Thrive Sustainability - Garden tips

Bugs aren't bad -Pollinators, Predators and Parasitoids - the superheroes of your veggie patch.

Fri, 15 Nov 2024 09:34:35 GMT

Australia's unique ecosystems are home to a variety of insects that play vital roles in maintaining healthy gardens. Beneficial insects play 3 important roles in the veggie patch.

Pollinators : These insects pollinate flowers and without them growing fruit and vegetables would be almost impossible. Examples include bees, butterflies, flies, and moths.

Predators: These insects eliminate pests by eating them. Examples include ladybugs, praying mantids, and green lacewing larvae.

Parasitoids : These insects lay their eggs on or inside other insects, which then become food for the developing larvae. Examples include wasps and flies.

Pictured below: Homemade bee hotels, blue banded bee's, Lacewing egg on a mulberry fruit.

Pictured above : Parasitic wasps Blue hairy flower wasps and a Lissopimpla excelsa, a praying mantis and Carrot flowers to attract beneficial insects such as hoverflies.

All photo's taken at Thrive Sustainability, where we manage the property organically without the use of chemical pesticides and herbicides.

Bees are essential for pollination, helping to fertilize plants and increase fruit and vegetable yields. Australia is home to both native bees and the introduced honeybee. Encourage bees by planting a variety of flowering plants and avoiding pesticides.

Nearly all of Australia’s 1,700 native bee species are solitary. Many lay their young in small borer holes in logs and crevices in rotting wood. We can provide habitat and nesting places in the garden by making bee hotels, such as these simple tin cans filled with varying sizes of bamboo cut offs.

Lacewings , particularly their larvae, are voracious predators of aphids, caterpillars, and mites. The adults feed on nectar and pollen, so planting flowers like cosmos and yarrow can help attract them to your garden.

Hoverflies are another great ally against aphids, thrips, and other pests. Their larvae feed on these insects, while the adults act as pollinators. Planting bright, open flowers such as marigolds and sunflowers can attract hoverflies. They also love Umbellifers - flowering plants that are part of the Apiaceae family. We often have carrots and celery that has been left to flower that really attracts beneficial insects.

Parasitic wasps help control caterpillars, beetles, and fly larvae by laying their eggs inside or on these pests. When the wasp larvae hatch, they consume their host. These wasps are attracted to gardens with diverse range of flowering plants.

Praying mantises are generalist predators that eat a wide variety of insects, including pests like grasshoppers, beetles, and caterpillars. They can be attracted to your garden by providing plants that offer good hiding spots, like shrubs and tall grasses.

Tips for Encouraging Beneficial Insects

Plant Diversity: A mix of flowers, herbs, and vegetables can attract a variety of beneficial insects.

Avoid Pesticides: Many Pesticides that can harm beneficial insects.

Provide Shelter: Rocks, logs, and garden debris can offer habitat for insects.

By fostering a garden environment that supports these beneficial insects, you can create a more resilient and productive garden.

How to grow strong, healthy vegetable seedlings

Fri, 11 Oct 2024 02:44:08 GMT

Raising your own vegetable seedlings from seed saves money, allows you to source interesting varieties that may not be available in punnets from your local garden centre and can grow as much as you need and practice successional planting. Sowing and germinating the seeds is the first step (for more tips on this see our seed raising guide here) Getting the seeds to pop their little heads up is the first challenge, but many people find once they get the seedlings past the stage where adult leaves are forming, they encounter problems. Common issues include Damping off, a fungal disease, that can cause seedlings to collapse and die suddenly. Leggy seedlings result from insufficient light, leading to weak, elongated stems. Yellowing leaves can indicate nutrient deficiencies or overwatering. Pest infestations, such as tiny fungus gnats flying around seedlings and infesting soil, can damage young plants. Mold growth in seed trays is another issue, often due to excessive moisture and poor air circulation. The following conditions are crucial for growing healthy, robust seedlings.

Optimal Lighting and Temperature

Seedlings need plenty of light to grow strong. Long, leggy, stretched seedlings are a result of insufficient light. If starting seeds inside on a windowsill once they have germinated, you need to get them outside in natural light, if the weather is cold a greenhouse or cold frame is useful, most commonly in Perth at this time of year the issue may be getting a hot sunny day that fry’s your little seedlings whilst you are at work; in this case placing them under the dappled shade of a tree or creating a little shelter with 30 – 40% shade cloth is ideal. If putting them outside before planting out is not practical or in the case of starting plants such as chillis and capsicums early when the weather is still cold, use grow lights for 12-16 hours a day. When using lights, I have constructed a reflective surround using corflute and kitchen foil that sits around the seedling trays to help the light distribute evenly. For most vegetables maintaining a temperature between 18-24°C is suitable to encourage healthy growth.

Watering and Humidity

Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged. Signs of overwatering can be yellowing leaves or an infestation of fungus gnats. How often seedlings are watered will depend on temperature and situation, but they will generally need watering once, or twice daily.

Good Air Circulation

Ensure there is adequate airflow around your seedlings. If growing in a greenhouse open windows and doors during the day or use a small fan to gently circulate air, which helps prevent the humid conditions that fungus gnats, fungi that causes damping off and mould thrive in.

Fertilising

Once seedlings have their first true adult leaves, start feeding them with a diluted, balanced fertilizer. Be careful to use the right dilution as fertiliser that is too strong can burn and damage young seedlings; a weaker solution is needed for seedling than mature plants and shrubs. I feed potted seedlings weekly, until they are a good size to plant out in the vegetable patch. Mark it in your diary or calendar so you remember to keep to the schedule! Seaweed solutions can be useful to prevent transplant shock and stress, but they are not a fertiliser and will not provide adequate nutrients to young growing plants. We make our own liquid fertilisers using weeds, manures and compost. Verigrow is also an excellent locally made fertiliser that we use occasionally.

Regular pest check

Small seedlings can quickly be decimated by pests due to their small size and in isolated areas such as greenhouses you won’t have small birds doing the pest patrol for you! Make a point of inspecting your seedlings closely a couple of times a week so you can address any problems before they reach plague proportions.

Saving Tomato, Chilli and capsicum seeds.

Wed, 18 Sep 2024 07:53:45 GMT

Learn how to save seeds from your favourite open pollinated Tomato, Chilli and Capsicum varieties.

Saving Tomato Seed

Tomato seeds are easy to save and can be used to grow your own tomatoes year after year. Placing the seeds in a jar and fermenting them helps break down the gelatinous substance that surrounds the seed and prevents germination. During the fermentation process, yeast and beneficial bacteria destroy any diseases that might be lurking on the outside of the seedcoat. Choose ripe and healthy tomatoes from open-pollinated or heirloom varieties. Avoid hybrid/ F1 tomatoes, as they will not produce true to type offspring (All the varieties Thrive sustainability sell are open pollinated) Cut the tomatoes in half and scoop out the seeds with a spoon into a glass jar. If there is not too much gel/liquid, you can add some water to cover the seeds and label the jar with the variety name and date. Cover the jar with a muslin cloth or like prevent flies entering.

Let the jar sit for two to three days at room temperature, the time is very dependent on the temperature, the warmer it is the quicker the process. This will allow the seeds to ferment, which helps remove the gel-like coating that prevents germination and kills any pathogens. You will notice some white mould or bubbles forming on the surface, this is a sign that fermentation is under way, and you can progress to the next step.

Pour the contents of the jar into a fine-mesh sieve and rinse the seeds well under running water. Discard any floating seeds, as they are not viable. Spread the seeds on to grease proof paper or paper towel and let them dry completely for several days. You can gently rub the seeds to separate them if they stick together.

Store the seeds in a paper envelope, a plastic bag, or a small jar with a tight lid. Label the container with the variety name and date and keep it in a cool, dry, and dark place until you are ready to plant them. Tomato seeds can last for several years if stored properly.

Saving Chilli and capsicum seed

Chilli flowers are self-fertile and self-pollinating, so a single bush can produce fruit without bees or insects. However, if you grow multiple chilli or capsicum varieties close together, cross-pollination by insects can occur, leading to seeds that may not resemble the parent plant.

Both Chillies and capsicum belong to the capsicum genus, species include Capsicum annum, C. frutescens, C. chinense, and C. pubescens. Except for C. pubescens, these species can cross-pollinate. As with tomato's be sure to source open pollinated seed if you want to be able to save your seeds from year to year.

To ensure seed purity you can isolate varieties by 200 m, this is impractical for most home gardeners. Instead, grow taller crops between varieties to discourage insects or to be 100 % sure seed stays pure cover plants with shade cloth or insect exclusion netting before flowers open. Remove the covering once fruit develops.

Choose Fully Ripe fruit - Select fruits that are fully ripe and have started to wrinkle. Fully ripe fruits ensure that the seeds inside are mature and viable for planting.

Extract the Seeds -Cut the capsicum or chilli open and scoop out the seeds along with the surrounding pulp. Be sure to wear gloves if you’re handling hot varieties to avoid skin irritation. Separate seed from the membrane.

Dry the Seeds - Spread the cleaned seeds on a baking paper or a fine mesh screen in a well-ventilated area, away from direct sunlight. Allow them to dry completely, which may take several days. Ensure the seeds are fully dry to prevent mould during storage.

Once dry, store the seeds in an airtight container. Label the container with the variety and date. Keep the seeds in a cool, dark place, such as a refrigerator, to maintain their viability.

WA Quarantine Ban on Tomato, Capsicum, and Chilli Seeds due to Tomato Brown Rugose Fruit Virus

Wed, 18 Sep 2024 07:29:13 GMT

Recent WA Ban on Tomato, Capsicum, and Chilli Seeds imports.

In a significant move to protect Western Australia’s agriculture, the Department of Primary Industries and Regional Development (DPIRD) has announced a ban on the import of tomato, capsicum, and chilli seeds and plants into the state. This decision, effective from September 12, 2024, aims to prevent the introduction of the highly infectious Tomato Brown Rugose Fruit Virus (ToBRFV)

What is ToBRFV?

ToBRFV is a plant virus that affects tomatoes, capsicums, and chillies, causing severe damage to crops. Symptoms include yellow spots, brown wrinkled patches, and deformed or uneven ripening of fruits. Leaves may show mottling, deformation, and wilting. The virus was recently detected in greenhouse-grown tomatoes in South Australia, marking its first appearance in Australia.

Why the Ban?

The ban is a proactive measure to safeguard WA’s horticulture industry from the devastating effects of ToBRFV. The virus can significantly reduce crop yields, posing a threat to both commercial growers and home gardeners. By restricting the import of seeds, nursery stock, and host fruits from affected regions, DPIRD aims to minimize the risk of the virus entering WA.

Impact on Gardeners

This ban affects all tomato, capsicum, and chilli seeds coming into WA from other states. Gardeners and growers are advised to source their seeds locally.

Gardeners and growers are encouraged to report any suspicious symptoms in their crops via the MyPestGuide®Reporter app Link here - MyPestGuide® Reporter app

Stay informed and vigilant to help protect WA’s horticulture and farming industry from this new threat.

This unfortunate event is another reminder of why it is so important to support local growers and learn simple life skills such as growing our own food and seed saving.

Here at Thrive Sustainability we will be growing a range of Chilli, Capsicum and Chilli seed again this year. We anticipate that there may be an increased demand for locally grown seed this year, so we are keen to connect with any seed savers that are interested in trading and selling pure and open pollinated seed. This recent development is yet another reminder how important it is to support and build local supply chains, seed and food security.

If you are interested in joining our seed saving community email info@thrivesustainability.com.au.

Seaweed tea recipe - How to create the ultimate tonic for your garden

Mon, 12 Aug 2024 02:16:11 GMT

Seaweed tea:

Fill a bucket or bin with seaweed and add water. The seaweed should be submerged. You can add seaweed loose or if you have one you can use a mesh bag (the type of sacks used for onions) or make your own tea bag out of some old scraps of shade cloth.

Rainwater is best but if you are using treated tap water you can leave tap water in an open container for 1 to 5 days before using and some of the chlorine will naturally dissipate into the air.

Place the bucket in a shady area, the brew will get a bit stinky so place in an out of the way spot where it will not bother you.

Cover the bucket loosely with a lid so animals can’t get in and so any rain does not overfill and dilute the brew, but so that air can still circulate. Let it soak for at least 8 weeks or up to 6 months. The longer it brews, the more nutrient-packed it becomes. At the start the seaweed will break down using aerobic digestion, giving it a daily stir for the first few weeks will speed the process up or if you get serious with your brewing you can attach an aquarium pump, as the tea starts going into the anaerobic stage of decomposition it will get pretty stinky, this is all normal. A good indicator that the tea has finished this process is that the tea will stop smelling. The tea will brew quicker in warmer weather and be slower in the winter months.

Strain the Tea:

Pour the seaweed tea through a sieve or strainer into another bucket. This removes any remaining seaweed bits.

Add any leftover seaweed sludge in to the compost.

Using the Seaweed Tea:

Dilute the seaweed tea with water (usually 1:10 ratio) and use it to water your plants.

Apply it at the root zone or as a foliar spray.

Immune booster citrus peel broth

Thu, 06 Jun 2024 01:33:30 GMT

Ward of winter ills, make use of nature's pharmacy and utilize an ingredient that is often seen as kitchen waste.

This recipe is a good way to utilise citrus peel, not often consumed, but the peel is actually packed with immune-boosting vitamin C, bone-building calcium and anti-inflammatory, antioxidant bioflavonoids. Peel also provides potassium, which helps keep blood pressure in check, and limonene, a phytochemical that several studies have indicated may have anti-cancer effects.

Try to use homegrown or organic citrus that has not have been sprayed. There are no hard rules as far as quantities go. I tend to save up our citrus peel or offcuts over the course of a week in the fridge and then make a batch. I also add ginger and turmeric, if you have fresh that’s great but dried will do too, you can also add celery if you have a healthy supply in the garden, I popped in some mulberry leaves in this batch as they also have some interesting health benefits.

Gather ingredients and place in large pan cover in water, bring to a boil, then simmer for around 30 minutes, turn off the heat. You can allow the mixture to sit and cool for a few hours or even overnight to allow the citrus to fully infuse before straining and bottling up.

The drink does have a slightly bitter flavour, I am fairly used to it, but some may want to add honey to sweeten and serve warm.

I drink this through the winter as a preventative to ward off bugs, but it is also a good cold and flu tonic for anyone who is suffering with sore throats and sniffles.

Winter salad

Wed, 05 Jun 2024 09:39:40 GMT

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You are what you eat, or should it be you are what you ate? Either way I think this is a good motto to live by to stay healthy and happy. I know I would rather be fresh, vibrant and healthy bowl of homegrown salad that’s had the sun on its face, opposed to an overly processed meal that’s been stuffed into a package and sat in the back of multiple trucks over the course of several months, that wouldn’t feel good!

I urge you to get experimental with your salads and just see what greens, herbs and edible weeds you can find outside and work with that. Eating a wide variety of plants has proven health benefits and when you transition from eating from the shops to eating from the backyard a world of variety really opens up.

Ingredients

For the salad

Lettuce

Mustard greens or rocket

Finely sliced cabbage or broccoli leaves

Finely sliced Swiss chard or spinach

Herbs such as parsley and perennial basil

Edible weeds such as Sorrel, chickweed and purslane

Edible flowers such as nasturtium, brassica flowers

Grated carrot or beetroot

Pomegranate jewels if available

*Use any combination of the above depending on what is growing outside

Roasted sweet potato or pumpkin

Cooked or canned chickpeas

Toasted nuts- Pecan, walnut or almonds work

Goats cheese, feta or haloumi

For the dressing

1 tablespoon Wholegrain Mustard

1 tablespoon Honey

1 clove Garlic (peeled and crushed)

Juice of one lemon

1 tablespoons Cider Vinegar

6 tablespoons olive oil or hemp oil for a nutty taste

Salt And Pepper

Whisk the dressing together, if you find the shredded brassica leaves such as broccoli leaves a bit tough to eat raw toss them in the dressing and let them sit in the fridge for a few hours, the acidity of the lemon juice really helps them soften, when you are ready to eat combine the rest of the salad and dressing and enjoy!

The dressing recipe makes up enough to dress a large 4 portion bowl of salad.

Grow some green goodness!

Thu, 16 May 2024 06:52:18 GMT

A guide to growing an abundant supply of lettuce and leafy greens in your patch.

Would you like a constant supply of fresh, spray free and packaging free leafy greens and salad? Well, if the answer is yes, have a go at growing your own- it’s easier than you think, and you don’t even need a veggie patch!

Whether you’re in the tropical north, the temperate south, the arid interior or here in Perth’s Mediterranean climate there’s a leafy green for every garden.

Choosing the Right Greens for Your Climate and season - When selecting leafy greens, consider varieties that are well-suited to your local conditions. Many greens, such as lettuce, rocket, Swiss chard and kale, can grow in any of Australia’s climates. Here in Perth, Autumn is a great time to plant any of the above, it is also the perfect time to grow spinach and mustard greens. Whereas heat loving greens such as Egyptian spinach and Kang kong are well suited to the tropics and can be grown here in Perth during the Summer months.

I love growing Rainbow Swiss Chard as an ornamental border along the path down to the veggie patches *See picture above. Quick growing Mustard greens, lettuce and rocket are excellent plants to fill in gaps around the garden and can be interplanted between slower growing crops such as cauliflower, I generally sow lettuce, mustard greens and rocket directly from seed, this is especially easy during cooler damper months, it’s just a case of sprinkling some seed and raking over so the small seeds are covered and the winter rain and dew will take care of the rest. If you do not have a garden, leafy greens can be grown in a large pot or container, choose a size 30 litres or above and use good quality potting mix.

Soil Preparation- All greens love fertile, well-drained soil. Before planting, enrich the soil with compost, well-rotted manure, or worm castings. After planting, maintaining consistent moisture and adequate nutrients is crucial to prevent bitterness and bolting. Feeding every month with a liquid feed such as a homemade compost tea or fish emulsion and liquid kelp will ensure plants grow vigorously and will provide ongoing harvests for pick and come again varieties.

Harvesting Techniques For a longer harvest- only pick the mature leaves around the outside of plants like loose leaf lettuce and Swiss chards as needed, rather than harvesting the whole plant. This method extends the plant’s life and allows you to keep picking new leaves as they regrow. For kale, you can encourage the plants to become perennial by harvesting just the mature leaves, which will also encourage them to grow a tall trunk with fresh leaves at the top.

Growing leafy greens is something anyone can do by selecting the right varieties for your climate, preparing the soil properly, you can enjoy a bountiful harvest of fresh, nutritious greens right from your backyard or balcony.

To browse our selection of Leafy greens seeds, click here.

Happy gardening!

Prepping for a winter of abundance

Thu, 18 Apr 2024 03:08:15 GMT

With a little prepping and planning winter can be the easiest and most productive season to grow food.

Step 1. Plan Your Crops: Choose vegetables that thrive in cooler temperatures, see our what to sow now guide or browse our Autumn selection. I find it useful to sketch out my garden beds on paper and figure out what will go where before I start planting, If you are short on space opt for climbing pea varieties such as our beautiful purple podded or golden peas that are as ornamental as they are tasty.

Step 2. Clear the Area: Remove weeds and any remains of summer crops and add them to your compost. If you have grown legumes over the summer just dig them back into the soil, the root systems will put valuable nitrogen into the soil to feed the winter crops. Not all your summer crops have to go Chilli, Capsicum and eggplants may stop producing over the winter months but in warmer winters they will survive and spring back into action when the temperatures rise again, I prune them back and plant around them if the plant is healthy.

Step 3. Add the magic ingredient - Organic matter, this is any material that was once living, or come from a living being and includes leaf litter, food scraps, compost, worm castings, mulch, lawn clippings and animal manures. Organic matter is ESSENTIAL to productive gardening soil. It provides nutrients for plants, improves the structure of the soil, holds moisture, and provides food for earthworms and microorganisms which further improve soil fertility and structure. The organic matter provides the food for the soil food web and in turn feeds the plants. Enrich the soil by adding aged compost, aged manure, or worm castings. This will improve soil structure, provide nutrients, and enhance microbial activity. I gently scratch or shallowly fork in compost and manure, avoiding breaking up the soil structure too much so to conserve the soils microbiome.

Spacing and Layout: Space plants and rows to allow for adequate growth however I usually plant a little closer than most guides recommend avoiding wasted space and room for weeds. Interplant slow growing crops such as leeks or cauliflowers with fast crops of radish, salad or Bok choy to make the most of the ground space whist the other crop is maturing.

Water. Don’t forget seeds and small seedling will need more regular and consistent watering than larger plants and you may not be able to rely on winter rains to keep your crops going.

Mulching: Apply a layer of mulch to conserve moisture, regulate soil temperature, and reduce weed growth.

Best pickled beetroot

Tue, 20 Feb 2024 03:12:43 GMT

Sweet Beets for burgers, salads and more!

This is hands down the best pickled beetroot recipe, handed down to me from my Mum who was an avid gardener and who I’m thankful to for instilling a passion for growing and making real food for my family. This recipe is simple and has the perfect balance of sweet and sour.

Combine 2 cups of sugar, 2 cups of vinegar, 2 cups of water, one teaspoon of allspice, one teaspoon of cinnamon and one teaspoon of cloves and simmer to dissolve sugar.

In a separate pot boil the beets skin on, then dip into cold water and remove the skins.

Slice or quarter large beets and then simmer in the prepared syrup for around 10 minutes or until tender.

Place beets in sterilised jars and cover with syrup and seal.

Ultimate guide to growing Chilli's

info@thrivesustainability.com.au (Laura Blishen) — Fri, 15 Dec 2023 01:59:23 GMT

Grow Chilli's to Spice up your patch!

Chillies are heat loving plants, that need plenty of sun and fertile soil to fruit well. They grow well in large containers or in the ground.

There are hundreds of varieties of chillies, in fruit of various colours, shapes, and sizes, ranging from mild to ridiculously hot. Chilli heat is measured in Scoville Heat Units (SHU), with milder varieties such as ‘ Anaheim ’ rated at 500–2,500 SHU, ‘ Jalapeno ’ at2,500–8,000 SHU, ‘Scotch Bonnet’ at 100,000–350,00 SHU and the blisteringly hot ‘ Carolina reaper chilli ’ at 2.2 million SHU. Heat is not just dependent on the variety though; it can also vary according to the growing conditions and stage of ripeness.

Sow seeds indoors from late winter to early spring and outdoors once temperatures warm up– an early start will give you earlier and longer harvests. Sow seeds in pots of fine well-draining seed raising mix at a depth of 5mm, cover with fine seed raising mix or vermiculite. Seeds need temperatures above 20/ 25 degrees to germinate reliably, interestingly the hotter the chilli, the higher the soil temperature required for germination.

Once plants have several sets of adult leaves and are around 15 cm tall plant out in the garden or large container. Prepare soil beforehand with compost and blood and bone or dynamic lifter. Whilst chillis thrive in the heat, they also require consistent moisture and some protection from drying winds especially when young. Interplanting amongst other crops can help protect them from drying out and create a more humid microclimate.

Keep soil mulched and liquid feed with compost tea or an off the shelf liquid fertiliser suited to fruiting and flowering plants once a month to boost fruit production.

In Perth's climate chillies and capsicums can be grown as a perennial and remain productive for more than one season. Just prune back when they start looking stressed in the colder months and they will spring back to life the following spring and you will get a head start for the next chilli and capsicum season.

What are you waiting for get some spice in your life and sow some Chillies! We have plenty of verities to choose from CLICK HERE to shop for seeds.

Summer proof your patch

Mon, 16 Oct 2023 08:56:07 GMT

Summer is tough on gardeners in Perth and many areas of WA, growing edibles can be a real challenge in our harsh climate. However, if you can implement some of the following suggestions, you can create a resilient garden that can withstand the heat and turn a scorched patch into an edible sanctuary.

Some of the tips can be implemented quickly and easily and some may be part of a longer-term plan to future proof your patch.

When improving the resilience of your garden Start from the ground up- Amend Soil to improve permeability and water retention.

The Key ingredient really is Carbon /Organic Matter. Organic carbon is the basis of soil fertility. It releases nutrients for plant growth, promotes the structure, biological and physical health of soil, and is a buffer against harmful substances. Organic matter also binds soil particles into aggregates and improves the water holding capacity of soil.

According to the CSIRO, in rainforests or good soils, soil organic carbon can be greater than 10%, while in poorer or heavily exploited soils, levels are likely to be less than 1%.

Adding organic matter to your soil needs to be an ongoing priority. Here are some ways you can get more organic matter into your garden.

• Mulch

• Compost

• Worm farm

• Chop n drop

• Lasagna beds

• Hügelkultur beds

If you find that your soil is Hydrophobic and water beads off as would on a waterproof jacket Surfactant based wetting agent can improve this.

Catch the water in the winter and store it …This doesn’t just apply to water tanks!

• Swales /Trenches to slow the flow of water, reduce run off, increase rain infiltration and reduce topsoil erosion.

• Planting in hollows/basins if applicable

• Use gravel for paths and driveways opposed to bitumen and paving, gravel will allow rainwater to permeate instead of running down stormwater drains.

• Make use of natural run off areas, dig out trenches and landscape your garden beds to catch the water.

Watering

• Best place to store water is in the ground itself.

• Having an automated watering system is advisable unless you have lots of spare time on your hands, most veggies won’t survive if you go away or forget to water for a couple of days during hot periods.

• Drip irrigation or low-level sprinklers have an advantage over overhead sprinklers as water loss due to wind drift, evaporation and over casting is reduced as is the increased risk of fungal disease in plants.

• Less frequent Deep soaking for trees is better than daily watering.

• Wicking beds are a great way to construct raised beds in our hot climate - see our previous blog post

Mulch prevents Evaporation, can reduce the amount of water needed by up to 50 % It regulates soil temperature -prevents roots from cooking! Organic mulches feed the soil as they break down.

Hot winds and extreme afternoon sun are the demise of many plants during the summer. Wind is responsible for topsoil erosion, drying out topsoil, damaging and drying foliage on sensitive plants.

• Plant living windbreaks – Wind tolerant trees and shrubs to protect more sensitive plants. A trellis with tough climber can create living windbreak and create shade.

• Utilise existing structures or protected areas for growing more sensitive plants.

• Deciduous shade trees such as figs and mulberries can provide dappled shade in summer whilst allowing light through in winter months.

• Shade cloth can make growing certain crops, much more viable during hotter months by preventing burning of foliage, reducing evaporation, and creating more humidity. It is thought by some white is the best colour of shade cloth for protecting the plants from the UV whilst still allowing the other wavelengths through needed for plant growth. 30 -50 % shade cloth is suitable for growing veggies.

What else can you do to help plants cope

• Kelp extract provides bio-stimulants that help plants to moderate water loss. Eco seaweed is a very cost-effective product.

• Sunscreen for plants formulated from Clay or calcium carbonate will allow sufficient sunlight through to produce normal photosynthesis whilst preventing burning.

• Be aware on a hot day plants and trees growing in pots may be more susceptible to heat damage as the roots will be much hotter than that of a plant grown in the ground.

When things get tough

• Prioritise water to trees and larger perennial plants that will take longer to replace and grow, trees and shrubs also will be providing shade and habitat for people birds and other creatures.

• Sacrifice quick growing annual plants

• Established Lawns and many ornamentals such as osteospernums and gazanias can survive without much water, they may go a bit shabby, brown and ugly looking but come back as soon as the rains come.

Don’t give up, learn from mistakes, and keep gardening!

An introduction to seed saving

Wed, 13 Sep 2023 09:45:17 GMT

Saving seeds from your garden can be a rewarding experience and an excellent life skill to learn and pass on to younger generations. It can also help you save money in the long run. If you save a few varieties each year, those crops will be self-sustaining, and you will truly be on your way to growing a self-sufficient garden. Allowing plants to self-seed can also be an easy way to save time and money.

Seed security/food security is another important reason to consider saving seeds. Do a little research and you will find that much of the seed sold to not only to farmers but also home gardeners are produced overseas. This long-convoluted supply chain puts us in a very vulnerable position. By saving seeds from plants that thrive in your garden and climate, you can produce plants that are resilient to your conditions and help preserve heirloom varieties that might otherwise not be available in the future.

Before we delve into seed saving it is helpful to understand the meaning of these commonly used and often misunderstood terms.

• Open pollinated seeds are seeds that are produced by natural pollination of plants of the same variety. They can be saved and will grow true to type year after year.

• Heirloom seeds are a subset of open pollinated seeds that have been passed down for generations and have historical or cultural significance. They are also non-GMO and have diverse traits and flavours.

• Hybrid seeds are seeds that are produced by cross pollination of two plants of the same species, but different varieties. They are often bred for specific traits such as disease resistance or uniformity. They cannot be saved reliably as they may not inherit the desired traits from their parents.

• GM (genetically modified) seeds are seeds that have been altered by inserting genes from other organisms using biotechnology. They are often designed for herbicide tolerance, insect resistance or enhanced nutrition. They are controversial due to potential environmental and health risks.

• Treated seeds are seeds that have been coated with some type of fungicide, pesticide, or chemical preservative to protect them from pests, diseases, and spoilage. Untreated seeds are seeds that have not been treated in any way and are natural and will not contain chemical residue.

Seeds you purchase from Thrive Sustainability are Open pollinated and in some cases Heirloom. We DO NOT sell Hybrid, GM, or treated seed.

Before saving seeds from your plants, it’s important to research how the variety is pollinated. There are two main ways of pollination in vegetables: self-pollination and cross-pollination. Self-pollination occurs when a flower is fertilized by its own pollen, this can happen by the slightest vibration or breeze. Cross-pollination occurs when a flower is fertilized by pollen from another flower, usually with the help of insects or wind. Some vegetables need to be pollinated by a flower from another plant. Brassica oleracea (Cabbage, Broccoli, Cauliflower, Brussel sprouts) are self-incompatible. Cucurbits (Cucumbers, zucchini, melon, pumpkin and squash) will produce separate male and female flowers.

Where to start

Vegetables that have self-pollinating flowers and are annuals are the easiest to save seeds from and a good place to start. Beans including snake bean and broad beans, Chilli, Capsicum, Lettuce, Peas are Tomatoes are varieties that are simple for home gardeners to start with. Beans and pea flowers are self-pollinated before the flower opens. If you don’t have time to save, process and dry seed, let nature do its job and let your garden self-seed.

Keeping seed pure

Remember to remove any weeds that may cross pollinate with the crop you are saving from for example Queen annes lace will cross with carrots, wild radish that is a common weed in paddocks with cross with your garden varities of radish. Stagger planting so crops are flowering at a different time (We grow 3 different crops of corn a year but ensure several weeks are left between sowing). Bag Flower buds – For self-pollinating crops such as tomato or cage the plant or row Researching your plants family and understanding what vegetables will cross pollinate with one another.

Cleaning the seed

Wet cleaning is a seed cleaning method used for seeds encased in moist flesh, such as pumpkin seeds. Here are the steps to wet clean seeds:

• Scoop the seeds into a bowl of water.

• Rub the seeds between your fingers and pick out any large chunks of flesh.

• Pour the mixture into a sieve and rub the seeds gently against the sieve to clean off pulp.

• Rinse the seeds under running water.

• Some seeds once cleaned benefit from fermentation.

Fermenting seeds is a process that mimics the natural rotting that occurs in nature and is used for seeds encased in moist gelatinous flesh, such as those of tomatoes and cucumbers. The fermentation process removes the germination-inhibiting substance that keeps seeds dormant, leaving behind clean seeds that are suitable for saving.

Dry cleaning is a seed cleaning method used for seeds that are not encased in moist flesh such as beans, peas, carrots. The process differs with each variety but generally you can use a selection of sieves and screens to separate the seed from the debris of the seed case, stems etc.

Winnowing can be a good way to separate the seeds from the chaff/ debris. In its simplest form, it involves throwing the mixture into the air so that the wind blows away the lighter chaff, while the heavier seed fall back down to the basket/ bowl, the process can take a little trial and error and be sure not to do it on a really windy day as you will loose the lot! We also use a system where we pour the mixture in front of a desk fan into a bucket below, the seed falls down and the debris blows further afield this can be done in a shed with a large sheet laid out so if you make a mistake and set the fan too high your seed won’t be lost.

Store seeds in a cool, dark, and dry place, such as a glass jar with a tight lid in the fridge or cool room in the house. Label your seeds with the name, variety, and date of collection. Re use the little moisture absorbing sachets you often get in packaging/ shoe boxes in your seed collection in case any damp gets into the box.

So, this year why don't you take a small step towards self-sufficiency and have a go at saving seeds, get together with friends and other members of your community and swap seeds. If you get really keen, we would love to hear from you as we are always looking for local WA based seed growers to supply Pure, open pollinated seed. If you are interested and are in the position where you can grow on a larger scale and ensure seed quality and purity, please email us at info@thrivesustainability.com.au

Rainbow broccoli salad Recipe

Wed, 13 Sep 2023 08:38:53 GMT

Its spring and our garden is bursting at the seams with beautiful heads of broccoli and cauliflower of varying colours, and I hope yours is too! If that is the case, you may also be trying to find ways of incorporating this nutritious veg into every lunch and dinner.

Ingredients:

1 large head of broccoli (use the stalk too) diced into small, bite-sized pieces and blanched for 1 minute to soften slightly but retain flavour and crunch, blanching is optional I left the purple broccoli raw as it is so tender anyway.

2 or 3 cups of cooked brown rice or quinoa (a great way to use leftovers)

1 or 2 big handfuls of Mint and parsley finely chopped.

1/2 cup crumbled feta cheese

¼ cup of toasted seeds or nuts, such and pine nuts, pumpkin seeds or flax or a mixture

¼ cup dried apricots or other dried fruit you have on hand finely diced

Petals from edible flowers to add colour and nutrients. I used society garlic and calendula petals.

Dressing:

A few glugs of olive oil

Juice of one lemon

¼ cup red wine or cider vinegar

¼ cup of fermented garlic honey or regular honey with a clove or 2 of crushed garlic

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

¼ teaspoon salt, more to taste

Pinch of pepper

Instructions:

In a large serving bowl, toss together the broccoli, brown rice, herbs, feta, dried fruit, some of the petals and seeds.

In a small bowl, whisk together all the dressing ingredients until emulsified.

Drizzle the dressing over the salad and toss well.

Scatter the remaining petals on top of the dish.

For best flavour, let the salad rest for 30 minutes before serving so the broccoli has a chance to marinate in dressing.

Growing, harvesting and storing root vegetables.

Thu, 06 Jul 2023 12:57:25 GMT

If you follow these basic guidelines root vegetables are an easy to grow crop. They are not often bothered by pests and have the added advantage of storing well for months after harvesting without the need for freezing or processing.

Growing

•Grow in the right season. Most Root vegetables favour cooler weather, so it’s best to sow seeds in autumn, winter (if no frost) and in some cases, early spring. However, there are some varieties that can be sown year-round, if in doubt you can select the season you want to purchase seeds for in our online store.

•Prepare the soil. Remove any rocks or large roots, if your ground is heavy clay or particularly hard and rocky root vegetables especially carrots and parsnips will grow better in a raised bed. Phosphorus is important to promote root growth and the most natural and slow-release way of adding it is through incorporating compost, manure, or worm castings, all of which will add other nutrients and improve soil health and structure. The soil should be loose, well-draining, and not too rich in nitrogen as this will result lots of leafy growth but small roots, so avoid fertilisers high in nitrogen.

•Sow seeds directly. Sowing seeds directly in the ground is more cost effective and most root vegetables are stunted by transplanting, especially carrots so safe yourself the disappointment of pathetic, small malformed vegetables and leave those punnets of carrots on the shelf when you are in the big green shed!

•Provide sufficient space. Thin your plants to give the roots enough space to grow. Crowded plants will compete for nutrients and water and produce small or distorted roots. One great space saving variety of beetroot is Beetroot ‘Cylindra’

•Remove weeds. Weeds can interfere with the growth and development of your root vegetables, so keep your garden bed free of them. Mulching can help suppress weeds and retain moisture in the soil.

•Root vegetables need consistent moisture to grow well and prevent cracking or splitting, ensure your soil can retain moisture and water deeply throughout hotter months, we find root vegetables thrive in our wicking beds.

Harvesting

Younger roots are usually most tender if I am harvesting roots to roast whole, I usually select smaller roots, this can leave room in between for larger roots to develop. Most root veg you can tell by scratching away the soil and seeing if the diameter of the root is big enough, when harvesting potatoes wait until the foliage yellows and starts to dye back.

Storage

Roots need to be stored in cool, dark, and humid conditions to prevent them from sprouting, rotting, or going soft.

•In mesh bags: These are great for potatoes as they allow air circulation, which prevents moisture build-up. Hang them in a cool, dark place.

•In the ground: Some root vegetables, such as parsnips and salsify, can be left in the ground and harvested as needed. You can cover them with a thick layer of mulch to protect them from heat in warmer months.

•In tubs filled with moist sand, this prevents roots from going soft and shrivelling in vegetables which lose moisture such as carrots, celeriac, turnips, swedes, beetroot and Jerusalem artichokes. Place the roots in layers of moist sand, ensure they are covered and place the tub in a dark place such as a shed.

This method is far better than refrigeration for many root vegetables.

Super Dooper Greens Powder

Tue, 20 Jun 2023 06:46:08 GMT

How to preserve the green goodness from your garden!

I have seen greens powder in health food stores and was rather surprised to see that people would pay around $50 - $60 for a tiny tub of dehydrated powdered vegetables, some were even padded out with things like rice bran. I am a big believer in eating unprocessed whole foods, however I can see the benefits in adding things like this to your diet to boost your nutrient intake, especially if you or your children have sensory issues around certain foods. My son will try most foods; he will chew leafy greens but swallowing them is a different issue! I remember struggling with certain textures when I was younger too, now I eat anything, except peas…creepy little buggers! Any way it was whilst discussing how he would love to eat custard every dinner time and I said it wouldn’t be too healthy, he suggested we make the green powder like we saw in the shop and add it to custard…but no we are still not having green custard for dinner every night!

You could use any leafy greens and herbs; we used mainly collard greens because they are growing profusely to the point even the chickens cannot eat enough to keep up with production. If you grow medicinal herbs, you could even make your o wn blend suited to your needs. The thickness of your leaves will determine how long they need to be dehydrated for.

First rinse your greens
Dry the greens and remove any thick stems.
Chop the leaves, the smaller the better as this will help you get more on to each tray.
Place the greens on a dehydrator tray and dehydrate on the lowest heat setting anywhere between 10-24 hours until they are totally dry, crisp and crumble in your hand.
Remove the greens from the dehydrator and grind them in batches in a blender or food processor until they form a fine powder, we found the gadget that is used to make purees on our food processor the most effective.
Store the powder in an airtight container for future use in meals, smoothies, baking or even custard!

Our 9-tray dehydrator was fully packed with chopped greens when we started, and it resulted in a jar and a half of powder (300 ml jars)

Spiced Squash soup recipe

Wed, 31 May 2023 02:46:50 GMT

This silky, smooth, spiced soup is a perfect way to warm up on a chilly Autumn afternoon. I like to make a big batch and freeze portions for lunches to save time and effort. I think butternut squash give the best results but you can add or substitute the butternut with good quality eating pumpkin if they have a nice sweet flavour.

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Guide to seed sowing success

Wed, 31 May 2023 02:24:48 GMT

Thrive Sustainability seeds are open pollinated and will grow true to type if the correct seed saving process for each variety is followed. Harvesting food from plants that you have grown from a handful of tiny seeds is a truly magical and rewarding process, however there are a few keys to success.

Seeds are inexpensive and if you save your own …free!

Thrive Sustainability seeds are open pollinated and will grow true to type if the correct seed saving process for each variety is followed. Harvesting food from plants that you have grown from a handful of tiny seeds is a truly magical and rewarding process, however there are a few keys to success.

Germination - the development of a plant from a seed or spore after a period of dormancy.

Depth- As a rule, seeds should be planted 2-3 times as deep as the seed size. If a tiny seed such as a carrot seed is sown to deep, it will not germinate.

Temperature . - Plants have their optimal temperatures for seed germination so growing vegetable in the right season is key to success e.g., Chilli seeds need temperatures above 20 c to germinate so are not suitable to sow in winter months.

Moisture . - Seed germination rely on adequate moisture – When starting seeds too little moisture and the seed will fail to germinate, too much the seed may rot, or newly emerged seedlings may suffer from fungal problems such as damping off. If starting seeds in containers placing a clear bag over the pot or creating a grow box out of an old clear plastic storage box, this can work well to prevent the soil drying out. In early stages of germination, it is so important that you do not let the soil dry out completely.

Light - Newly germinated seedling will grow long, leggy, and weak if left on a windowsill or veranda where they only get light from one direction. Place in an area where they get overhead light.

Soil conditions - Soil for germinating seeds needs to be lightweight and free draining but able to hold moisture. If buying a bagged soil look for seed raising mix opposed to potting mix, or if planting in the ground ensure soil has been improved with organic matter such as compost and the topsoil is finely raked, sieve a light dusting of sand to cover small seeds such as carrots.

When buying seeds – Buy local! Many seeds are imported from overseas, however if you can source locally grown Australian seed, you will be growing seed that has had a chance to adapt to the climate and conditions.

Winter - a Fantastic Time for Planting Fruit Trees

Wed, 19 Jun 2019 11:25:00 GMT

While many people think of spring as the ultimate time to get out in the garden Winter is actually the best times to get out and plant fruit trees such as stone fruit, apples and pears. Getting fruit trees in the ground during the winter months gives them plenty of time to establish before the hot summer. If planting deciduous trees, you can minimise transplant stress by planting when the tree is dormant. You can also source bare rooted trees in winter, the advantage to buying a tree like this is they are often cheaper and more advanced to a potted tree and have a root system that will not be root bound by a container.

Getting trees in the ground - good preparation of the hole and surrounding ground is essential to ensure your fruit tree has the best start

If soil is very heavy clay and not well drained/prone to flooding it is advisable to make a circular mound 1.5 metres across and 20-30 cm high using some loamy soil and planting tree on top, Avocados are particularly sensitive, and will suffer if they are in soil that does not drain. Alternatively, if the ground is well drained, dry and you are planting on a hillside, you may wish to create a dish like hollow in the ground and plant the tree in the centre to help prevent water run-off.

Dig the hole at least twice the depth and width of the container but if the soil is poor bigger is better, a square hole is better than a round one as it encourages the roots to push out into the surrounding ground. Set the soil that is removed from the hole aside and using a spade Combine Compost, rock minerals and if the soil is sand add a clay product such as soil solver to the soil. Mixing is important so that the tree’s roots don’t meet a sudden boundary between compost and regular soil.

Whilst preparing the hole soak the roots of the tree in water or a seaweed solution such as Eco-seaweed, this will help prevent dry brittle roots being damaged.

When planting try and carefully spread the roots out in a natural position. If planting a bare rooted tree, it helps to mound a pile of soil at the centre of the base to help support the root system, then back fill the soil, add water as you go to remove any air pockets. Don't fertilise deciduous species until the tree starts growing in spring.

In the weeks after planting water the soil well to stop the roots drying out and to further settle the soil around them.

If you would like to plant some fruit trees this winter support local and visit your local independent nursery.

Controlling White-Fly Organically

Wed, 03 Oct 2018 03:20:00 GMT

White-fly are closely related to sap-sucking aphids. The adults look like tiny, white moths, Eggs are laid on the undersides of leaves and hatch within 8 days. Both newly hatched 'crawlers' and adults feed by sucking the sap from the underside of the leaf. They also excrete 'honeydew' which can cause problems with black sooty mould

Unfortunately, over-use of pesticides will kill of white-fly's natural predators. One study has even demonstrated an increased white-fly reproductive capacity when sprayed with certain insecticides

Natural enemies of white-fly include small birds, spiders, lacewings, hoverflies, ground beetles and damsel bugs. The adults and larvae of some ladybirds also feed on white-flys

Below: A lacewing - natural predator of white-fly

What can we do to reduce damage to our crops?

We have Eco-oil, Eco-neem and insect exclusion netting available at The Edible Gardens Nursery @ 48 Citron Way, Lower Chittering we are open 9-5 Wed, Fri and Sat

Wicking Beds - a Smart Way to Grow in Perth's Climate

Mon, 12 Feb 2018 03:55:00 GMT

Wicking beds are basically containers with water reservoirs at the base. Plants are watered from below rather than above, moisture is drawn up through the soil via a process called capillary action or wicking. This allows moisture to be more evenly distributed through the soil, creating better growing conditions for the plants.

Pros

Cons

As the saying goes there’s more than one way to skin a cat and there are many ways and materials that can be used to construct a wicking bed but below is a step by step guide to how we have constructed the 2 wicking beds in Thrive sustainability’s home garden.

Frame built from 3.4m x 200mm jarrah sleepers with a PVC pond liner fitted, used some old carpet to line the base to prevent any sharp stones puncturing the liner.

Install one 25mm tank nozzle through side wall as a drain 250mm from base

Drill holes along the length of a pvc pipe, fit an elbow and enough pipe to come above the finished soil level, fit a cap to prevent mosquitos and debris from entering pipe

Next add the gravel, we used blue metal gravel to the depth of about 25 cm

At this stage you also want to start filling the reservoir with water, so you can get the gravel level with the overflow.

Next, a layer of geotextile fabric goes over the top of the scoria to prevent the soil clogging the water reservoir.

Finally, the soil goes on top. It needs to be around 30 centimetres deep - the optimal height to get soil wicking properly.

really good quality vegie garden soil that's high in organic matter - that's essential for the wicking to work effectively.

The soil will take a little while to start to wick by itself – a few days to a week- so until that point, you will need to water from above.

Finally the fun bit- Planting out your seedlings, remember to add a layer of mulch after planting.

If you like the idea of growing in a wicking bed but do not have the time to build your own local Perth based business https://plantersraisedgardens.au/ sell wicking bed systems. Sign up for our newsletter for more helpful gardening info and to keep up to date with events and workshops that we run throughout the year. Happy gardening :)

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